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N°448

Du 20 Février au 20 Mars 2019

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-8 L’actualité des maisons
  • 10 Les bonnes surprises du SIRHA 2019
  • 16 De tout, un peu
  • 26-32 Les pâques des maisons

REPORTAGES

  • 12-15 Gaston Lenôtre (28 mai 1920 - 8 janvier 2009)
  • 18-22 Région Bourgogne/Franche-Comté, Dijon : Pierre et Émilie Hubert
  • 24-25 Hôtel the Westin Paris-Vendôme Florence Lesage
  • 54-57 Pas à pas des chefs : Julien Boutonnet, M.O.F., le Roulé amande et agrumes

ARTISTIQUE

  • 64-67 Keita Ishiguro lauréat du 7e concours Relais Desserts Charles Proust
  • 68 Championnat de France du dessert
  • 70-71 Agenda des concours
  • 76-77 Sucre artistique : Titouan Claudet

RECETTES

  • 39-49 Recettes de nos chefs : Spécial Alcools
  • 50-51 Pas à pas pâtisserie
  • 52-53 Pas à pas confiserie
  • 58-59 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 34-36 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 60-63 Dossier spécial Alcools
  • 72 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 74-75 Technologie de la glace : Glace au nougat
  • 78-79 Bibliothèque
  • 80 Sucre artistique : Sirène Naga
  • 82 Petites annonces classées
  • 84 Dernière : Le Lampadaire de Titouan Claudet, Chef de Partie Pâtissier à l’Auberge de l’Ill, 68970 Illhaeusern.

Recipe of the month

Black Forest

CHOCOLATE SPONGE

  • Egg whites 635 g
  • Caster sugar 610 g
  • Egg yolks 635 g
  • Butter 140 g
  • Flour T55 127 g
  • Cocoa butter 127 g
  • Potato starch 127 g

Whip egg white and add sugar in three times, add egg yolks, sifted powders and finish with butter melted to 40°C. Spread 1,200 g per tray and bake at 180°C for 8 minutes.


VANILLA WHIPPED GANACHE

  • Cream 289 g
  • Invert sugar 29 g
  • Glucose 29 g
  • White chocolate 199 g
  • Cream 434 g
  • Kirsch 20 g

Heat 289 g cream with invert sugar and glucose, pour in three times onto chocolate and emulsify with a hand blender. Add 434 g cream and the kirsch. Refrigerate overnight before use.


AMARENA KIRSH SYRUP

  • Amarena syrup, strained 667 g
  • Kirsch 13 g
  • Water 67 g
  • Caster sugar 53 g

Boil water, sugar and syrup. Add kirsch.


GUANAJA CHOCOLATE GANACHE MOUSSE

  • Cream 184 g
  • Couverture Guanaja 70% (Valrhona) 184 g
  • Cream 35% fat UHT 132 g

Boil 184 g cream and pour in three times onto the chocolate to emulsify. Cool to 36°C before folding 132 g semi-whipped cream.


AMARENA SPRAY MIXTURE

  • Neutral glaze 400 g
  • Amarena (see above) 40 g

Boil neutral glaze with syrup, spray hot.


ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING

Assemble in a 3.5 cm high ring. Soak two sponges when they are still warm, whip vanilla ganache to a creamy texture. Spread onto the fi rst sponge in a frame and add 600 g amarena cherries (rinsed to remove excessive sugar), and cover with a second sponge. Spread chocolate mousse and once cooled, cut 18 cm rings. Spray with amarena glaze and decorate with chocolate shavings, non melting icing sugar, cocoa powder and gold leaf.

Recipe given by

YOAN PALAMARA
Sous-Chef Pâtissier Pâtisserie Intuitions, Cannes.

THE IDEA?

The idea was to revisit the classical black forest that everyone knows, fabricated in a pastry shop in a profitable way retaining all the original flavours, but added texture.


THE SHAPE?

I wanted to retain the tradition round shape, adding a geometric and indulging
finish.


THE FLAVOURS?

The goal was to retain the original fl avours of a blackforest with a little intensity of kirsch, amarena, chocolate and vanilla, all with improving the textures and fl avours creating a lighter dessert.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

To have a clean and even assembly so that the cut will be perfect. The decoration requires precision.


CAREFUL

Emulsify correctly to obtain ideal textures.

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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