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N°450

du 20 avril au 20 mai 2019

Sommaire


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-9 L’actualité des maisons
  • 10 Région Bretagne, 41e finale du M.A.F. Pâtissier 2019 : Meilleur Apprenti de France Pâtissier 2019, Théo Labaune, région Bourgogne-Franche-Comté
  • 11 Assemblée générale de Tradition Gourmande, un beau succès pour cette première nordiste
  • 12-14 59e Journées nationales de formation du Centre féminin de la Pâtisserie à Lyon-Chassieu : un séminaire riche en ateliers, au goût du jour
  • 16-17 Le goûter des jeunes Chefs
  • 18-19 Les Sud’Crés autour de Pâques 2019
  • 80-81 De tout un peu

REPORTAGES

  • 20-23 Les Baisers Sucrés d’Étienne Tholoniat
  • 24-27 À la carte : Desty Brami, du palace au château
  • 28-30 Tea time : le nouvel afternoon tea du Burgundy Paris
  • 78-79 Pâtissier français à l’étranger : Julien Perrinet, Chef Pâtissier exécutif du grand Hyatt de Taipei, Chine
  • 82-85 Entretien avec : Jean-Paul Hévin

ARTISTIQUE

  • 86-89 15e Festival national des Croquembouches à Yssingeaux : Les jeux de société mis en scène avec talent
  • 90-91 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 33-55 Recettes de nos chefs : Spécial petits-fours
  • 56-57 Pas à pas pâtisserie
  • 58-59 Pas à pas confiserie
  • 60-63 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 32 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 64-71 Matériel de laboratoire, l’actualité des fournisseurs
  • 72-76 Activité traiteur, l’actualité des fournisseurs
  • 92 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 94-95 Technologie de la glace : Glace au calisson
  • 96 Sucre artistique : Le petit burger de cactus
  • 97-98 Petites annonces classées
  • 100 Dernière : Prix Sucre de la Coupe du monde de la Pâtisserie Lyon 2019.

Recipe of the month

DESTY BRAMI

VANILLA-RASPBERRY

CHOUX PASTRY

  • Milk 500 g
  • Water 500 g
  • Caster sugar 20 g
  • Salt 20 g
  • Butter 450 g
  • Flour T55 600 g
  • Eggs 950 g

Boil milk with water, sugar, salt and butter. Add flour and dry out on low heat. Gradually add eggs and pipe onto lightly greased trays. Place choux crunch on top and bake at 165°C in a deck oven for 40 to 45 minutes. Dry out in a fan forced oven for 3 to 5 minutes.


CHOUX CRUNCH

  • Butter, softened 300 g
  • Raw (unrefined) sugar 370 g
  • Flour T55 370 g
  • Red colouring as needed

Mix ingredients together without whipping. Roll out between two sheets of baking paper to 1.2 onto a dough machine. Cut discs.


VANILLA CRÈME ANGLAISE

  • Cream 500 g
  • Vanilla paste (Agrimontana) 14 g
  • Egg yolks 100 g
  • Gelatin 4 g

Heat cream with vanilla paste and egg yolks. Cook to 81°C and add gelatin. Blend.


MASCARPONE VANILLA CREAM

  • Vanilla crème anglaise 375 g
  • Mascarpone 250 g

Cool crème anglaise and whip with mascarpone.


RASPBERRY CONFIT

  • Frozen raspberry pieces 1 000 g
  • Caster sugar 800 g

Mix together and heat to reduce.


ASSEMBLY

Fill choux with vanilla cream and raspberry confit. Place a 3 cm raspberry chocolate square onto the choux. Pipe a dot of cream to stick a raspberry and finish with silver leaf.


CHOCOLATE LIME MACARON

ITALIAN MERINGUE MACARONS

  • Icing sugar 1 100 g
  • Almond powder 900 g
  • Egg whites 400 g
  • Yellow colouring as needed
  • Sugar cooked to 118°C 900 g
  • Water for cooking sugar 300 g
  • Egg whites 400 g

Briefly blend icing sugar with almond powder and sift. Mix 400 g egg whites with colouring. Cook sugar to 118°C and pour onto remaining 400 g egg whites. Pipe and bake at 155°C for 6 minutes + 6 minutes for small sized product. Always verify the baking before taking out of the oven.


CHOCOLAT-LIME GANACHE

  • Cream 80 g
  • Lime zest 4 g
  • Invert sugar 15 g
  • Lime juice 250 g
  • Caster sugar 60 g
  • Couverture Tanariva 33 % (Valrhona) 480 g

Boil cream with zest, invert sugar and juice. Pour onto chocolate, blend.


ASSEMBLY

Generously fill macarons before placing the tops. Store and wrap the macarons and leave to mature for 24 hours in refrigerator. Freeze.


CHOCOLATE-VANILLA MACARON

CHOCOLATE ITALIAN MERINGUE MACARON

  • Icing sugar 500 g
  • Almond powder 500 g
  • Egg whites 200 g
  • Cocoa paste 200 g
  • Sugar cooked to 118 °C 550 g
  • Water for cooking sugar 180 g
  • Egg whites 200 g
  • Red colouring as needed

Melt cocoa paste. Briefly blend icing sugar with almond powder and sift. Mix 400 g egg whites with colouring. Cook sugar to 118°C and pour onto remaining 400 g egg whites. Fold meringue with melted cocoa paste and finish with previous mixture. Pipe and bake at 155°C for 6 minutes + 6 minutes for small sized product. Always verify the baking before taking out of the oven.


CHOCOLATE-VANILLA GANACHE

  • Cream 1 050 g
  • Glucose 125 g
  • Vanilla bean 125 g
  • Couverture Jivara 40 % (Valrhona) 360 g
  • Couverture Caraïbe 66 % (Valrhona) 350 g

Leave vanilla to infuse for 24 hours in cold cream. Boil cream with glucose and cocoa powder. Pour in a couple of times onto chocolate, add butter at 60°C and emulsify with a hand blender.


ASSEMBLY

Fill macarons, store and wrap well, leave for 24 hours in refrigerator to mature. Freeze.


SOFT PEAR-TONKA SOFT SPONGE

POACHED PEARS WITH TONKA

  • Water 1 000 g
  • Caster sugar 200 g
  • Lemon juice 150 g
  • Tonka bean 5 g
  • Pears as needed

Place pears in boiling syrup and store in cool room. Cut into cubes.


SOFT SPONGE WITH PEARS IN TONKA

  • Almond powder 600 g
  • Caster sugar 700 g
  • Starch 80 g
  • Eggs 420 g
  • Eggs yolks 200 g
  • Cream 600 g

Mix all ingredients together. Pipe into Flexipan® and add poached pears. Bake at 175°C for 10 to 15 minutes.


LEMON WATER GLAZE

  • Icing sugar 1 000 g
  • Lemon juice 250 g

Sift icing sugar and add lemon juice. Glaze cakes and bake at 250°C for 1 to 2 minutes in a deck oven.


PEAR VANILLA MARMALADE

  • Fresh pears 500 g
  • Lemon juice 40 g
  • Caster sugar 30 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 g
  • Pectin NH 2,5 g
  • Caster sugar 10 g

Cook well all ingredients together. Blend and leave to cool.


COCOA NIB STREUSEL

  • Butter 218 g
  • Caster sugar 218 g
  • Flour 218 g
  • Almond powder 218 g
  • Cacao nibs 119 g
  • Salt "fleur de sel" 8 g

Mix cocoa nibs with sugar. Add remaining ingredients and form a crumble texture. Bake at 160°C for 15 minutes.


CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE

  • Full cream milk 1 000 g
  • Vanilla 8 g
  • Caster sugar 200 g
  • Egg yolks 250 g
  • Custard powder 100 g
  • Butter 100 g

Boil milk and vanilla. Mix well sugar, egg yolks and custard powder. Pour liquid onto egg mixture and cook again. Add butter and emulsify before storing.


LIGHT CREAM WITH PEAR LIQUOR

  • Crème pâtissière 1 000 g
  • Whipped cream 1 000 g
  • Pear liquor 80 g

Mix the crème pâtissière with liquor and fold in whipped cream.


CHOCOLATE-PASSION FRUIT ROCHER WITH HAZELNUT PRALINE

CHOCOLATE-PASSION FRUIT-HAZELNUT PRALINE ROCHER

  • Couverture Jivara 40 % (Valrhona) 200 g
  • Hazelnut paste 200 g
  • Homemade hazelnut praline 200 g
  • Feuilletine 200 g
  • Hazelnuts as needed

Melt chocolate and add remaining ingredients. Pipe into mould with feuilletine on top. Roast hazelnuts, crush and place on top.


SEMI-LIQUID PASSION FRUIT CARAMEL

  • Glucose 200 g
  • Cream 35 % fat 160 g
  • Sugar, cooked to a dry caramel 100 g
  • Passion fruit puree 100 g

Boil glucose and cream. Cook a dry caramel with sugar and stop cooking with previous mixture. Add passion fruit. Pour into half spheres onto feuilletine.


MANGO CREAM

  • Mango puree 300 g
  • Passion fruit puree 300 g
  • Caster sugar 400 g
  • Egg 600 g
  • Butter 800 g
  • Gelatin 14 g

Boil all ingredients, add gelatin and cool to 40°C before emulsifying butter with a hand blender. Pour into pomponette silicon moulds.


GUANAJA CHOCOLATE CREAM

  • Milk 3 010 g
  • Cream 3 010 g
  • Egg yolks 990 g
  • Caster sugar 820 g
  • Couverture Guanaja 70 % (Valrhona) 3 290 g

Boil milk and cream, pour onto egg yolks and sugar. Cook a crème anglaise to 81°C and pour into three times onto chocolate. Emulsify with a hand blender and pour into moulds. Keep a small amount in a piping bag for the assembly.


SOFT CHOCOLATE SPONGE

  • Couverture Manjari 64 % (Valrhona) 420 g
  • Butter, melted 220 g
  • Egg yolks 200 g
  • Egg whites 400 g
  • Caster sugar 220 g
  • Flour T55 70 g

Melt butter and chocolate. Whip egg whites with sugar. Add egg yolks into chocolate mixture and fold meringue, finishing with sifted flour. Bake at 180°C for 8 to 10 minutes. Cut 4.5 cm diameter discs.


HOMEMADE PRALINE

  • Roasted hazelnuts 600 g
  • Caster sugar 400 g
  • Salt 2 g

Cook sugar to a golden caramel, add salt. Pour onto roasted hazelnuts. Blend in a robot-coupe. Pipe into the Jivara-passion fruit chantilly.


MILK CHOCOLATE-CHOPPED ALMOND ENROBING

  • Couverture Jivara 40 % (Valrhona) 500 g
  • Caster sugar 500 g
  • Roasted chopped almonds as needed

Dip balls into the enrobing.


TANARIVA-PASSION FRUIT CHANTILLY

  • Cream 800 g
  • Couverture Tanariva 33 % (Valrhona) 600 g
  • Gelatin 6 g
  • Passion fruit puree 250 g

Boil cream, add gelatin and pour onto chocolate. Add passion fruit puree and emulsify with a hand blender. Strain.


CHOCOLATE DECORATION

  • Couverture Satilia 62 % (Valrhona) 8 g

Cut 5 cm diameter discs.


ASSEMBLY

Pipe chantilly with a large star tip. Inject homemade praline in the centre. Place chocolate decoration and gold leaf in the centre with 3 halved hazelnuts around.

Recipe given by

DESTY BRAMI
Chef Pâtissier exécutif du château de Ferrières

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