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N°456

Du 20 novembre au 20 décembre 2019

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-8 L’actualité des maisons
  • 10 SIGEP, une 41e édition innovations et compétitions
  • 12-13 Rémi Chapuis, Pâtissier à Falaise (14), remporte le Prix Goût et Santé MAAF
  • 14-15 Les Rabelais des Jeunes Talents 2019
  • 16-18 Sensibilité Gourmande : 20 ans de passion pour l’excellence du métier
  • 20 Avec l’Ultime, bienvenue dans l’univers de la foodtech
  • 22 Tradition Gourmande a fêté ses 30 ans

REPORTAGES

  • 24-27 François Daubinet, Chef Pâtissier exécutif de la maison Fauchon
  • 28-31 Yann Brys, dans le tourbillon de la pâtisserie boutique
  • 76-79 Entretien avec Christophe Michalak
  • 80-83 Pâtissier français à l’étranger : Jean-Sébastien Clapié, Tokyo
  • 84-85 L’Artisterie à Lyon 8e : Le pari de l’atelierboutique, signé Laurie Bellon

ARTISTIQUE

  • 86 Belle promotion pour le 37e challenge des Mains d’Or
  • 87 6e Chocolate Chef Competition c3 Yoann Normand représentera la France
  • 88-89 Nantes, Serbotel 2019, Romain Morilleau remporte le 1er Trophée Agitateur de Papilles
  • 90-91 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 39-59 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial vert
  • 60-61 Pas à pas Pâtisserie
  • 62-63 Pas à pas Confiserie
  • 64-68 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 32-34 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 36-38 Les galettes des maisons et palaces
  • 70-74 Beurre, crème et matières grasses
  • 92 Actualités des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 94-95 Technologie de la glace : Sorbets et Nutri-Score
  • 96 Sucre artistique : Mon beau sapin
  • 98 Petites annonces classées
  • 100 Dernière : Le biker, pièce en chocolat réalisée par Xavier Berger et Arnaud Marquet.

Recipe of the month

PISTACHIO TARTELETTE

3 x 10 cm square tartlets.

PISTACHIO SWEET PASTRY

  • Butter 100 g
  • Unrefined cane sugar 88 g
  • Buckwheat flour 40 g
  • Flour T55 76 g
  • Fine semolina 18 g
  • Ground pistachios 44 g
  • Fine "fleur de sel" sea salt 2 g
  • Vanilla 1 g
  • Egg 36 g

Rub all ingredients together except the egg. Add the egg and smear to form homogenous dough. Line a perforated 10 cm square mould. Bake at 150°C.


PISTACHIO PRALINE

  • Sugar 26 g
  • Sorbitol 2 g
  • Fine "fleur de sel" sea salt as needed
  • Water 10 g
  • Whole pistachios, toasted 38 g
  • Pure pistachio paste (Agriland) 15 g
  • Flavoured pistachio paste (Agriland) 10 g
  • Mycryo cocoa butter, softened 4 g
  • White couverture chocolate 7 g

Cook the sugars, salt and water to 125°C. Add the hot toasted pistachios to the cooked sugar. Cook until candied and almost caramelized. Pour onto a tray to cool. Coarsely mix and chill in the freezer. Blend cold and no higher than 30°C; add the pistachio pastes. Add the cocoa butter and the tempered white couverture chocolate (31°C). Blend and then push through a drum sieve; pour into a container.


GELATINE MASS

  • Powdered gelatine 150 Bloom 4 g
  • Water 21 g

Combine the gelatine and water over a bain-marie for the pistachio cream and pistachio Chantilly cream. Use the gelatine mass melted to 80°C.


PISTACHIO CREAM

  • Pastry cream 180 g
  • Pure pistachio paste (Agriland) 6 g
  • Gelatine mass 9 g
  • Whipping cream 120 g

Mix the hot pastry cream with the pistachio paste and melted gelatine mass. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Whip the cold pastry cream. Whip the cream. Incorporate the whipped cream into the pastry cream in two batches.


PISTACHIO CHANTILLY CREAM

  • Whipping cream 260 g
  • Sugar 25 g
  • Pistachio paste 20 g
  • Gelatine mass 16 g
  • Mascarpone 130 g

Whisk all the ingredients together in a stand mixer. Ensure the cream is not too firm for piping.


DECORATION

  • Chopped pistachios as needed

Pipe the pistachio praline into the pistachio sweet pastry square. Pipe the pistachio cream on top. Use a Saint Honoré tip to pipe the pistachio Chantilly cream on top. Decorate with chopped pistachios.

Recipe given by

FABRICE DANIEL
École Le Cordon Bleu, Paris.

THE IDEA?

The idea of this tartlet is to come as close as possible to the original taste of pistachios.


THE SHAPE?

The square shape gives the tartlet a modern and elegant look.


THE FLAVOURS?

Pistachio flavours are the highlight: Pistachio praline gives great aromatic power; pistachio Chantilly cream provides a delicate length to mouth feel and the pistachio sweet pastry makes it appetising.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

Piping the pistachio Chantilly cream is the most delicate technical step.


CAREFUL

Do not overcook the pistachio praline, as this may produce a pronounced bitterness.

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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