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N°491

Du 20 janvier au 20 février 2023

Summary


ACTUALITÉ

  • 6-9 Suisse, Genève, Palexpo : La Swiss Pastry Cup révèle des talents
  • 10 Le Club des Croqueurs de Chocolat a 40 ans
  • 11 Actualité des créations
  • 12-13 Actualité des Chefs

REPORTAGES

  • 18-21 Hôtel Royal Monceau-Raffles (Paris) : Quentin Lechat, un chef d’instinct
  • 22-26 Pâtisserie Iafrati à Vichy (Allier) : Une affaire de famille, dans l’air du temps
  • 60-61 Côté magasin : Les entretiens inspirants
  • 70-75 Entretien : Hugues Pouget

ARTISTIQUE

  • 62-63 Concours : Romorantin, journées gastronomiques de Sologne
  • 63 Région Bretagne, Saint-Malo : Concours du meilleur far breton
  • 64-65 Région Bretagne, Vannes : Près de 20 000 visiteurs au salon Chocolat & Pâtisserie
  • 66 Concours : Matéo Attard M.A.F. Chocolatier-Confiseur 2022
  • 67 Cantal, Vézac : Championnat de France de sculpture sur glace hydrique
  • 67 Bordeaux-Lac, parc des Expositions : Baptiste Barry est présélectionné en Pâtisserie pour les Olympiades des Métiers
  • 68 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 35-47 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial citron
  • 48-49 Pas à pas Pâtisserie : Cake citron-noisette
  • 50-51 Pas à pas Chocolaterie : Yuzu-amande
  • 52-53 Recettes Adapt : Lemon Cloud
  • 54-59 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIERS

  • 14-17 Épiphanie 2023, suite et fin
  • 28-30 Nouveautés et actualité des fournisseurs
  • 31-33 Parmi les idées de la Saint-Valentin des Maisons

PRATIQUE

  • 69 Technologie de la glace : Crème glacée pain d’épice-citron
  • 76-79 Bibliothèque
  • 80-81 Sucre artistique : Le Coq
  • 82 Petites annonces classées
  • 84 Dernière : Le buffet de l’équipe de France Championne du Monde des Arts Sucrés 2022 au Salon du Chocolat de Paris.

Recipe of the month

LEMON LIMONCELLO, LIKE A FLOWER

LEMON WHIPPED GANACHE

  • Cream 35% fat 1,000 g
  • Glucose 75 g
  • Invert sugar 75 g
  • Pulco lemon 200 g
  • White chocolate 1,000 g
  • Gelatin leaf (200 Bloom) 20 g
  • Limoncello 400 g
  • Cream 35% fat 1,500 g

Boil 1,000 g cream, glucose, invert sugar and Pulco lemon. Pour onto white chocolate, gelatin and limoncello. Emulsify with hand blender and add 1,500 g cold cream, blend and refrigerate for 24 hours.


LEMON GEL (INSERT)

  • Pulco lemon 400 g
  • Water 1,000 g
  • Caster sugar 500 g
  • Agar-agar 10 g

Heat pulco with water. Gradually add sugar mixed with agar and boil for 4 minutes. Cool and blend before spreading into stencils. Blast freeze.


YELLOW JELLY (PLATE DECORATION)

  • Neutral glaze as nec.
  • Lemon yellow colouring as nec.
  • Yuzu juice as nec.

Mix all ingredients together. Fill a saucebottle.


MERINGUE FLOWER

  • Egg whites 1,000 g
  • Caster sugar 1,000 g
  • Icing sugar 1,000 g
  • Calcium chloride as nec.

Whip whites and gradually add caster sugar, leave to form a meringue. Sift icing sugar and fold into meringue Spread into a flower shape and bake at 90°C for 1 hour, open vent. Store in an airtight container with calcium chloride.


YELLOW ENROBING

  • Cocoa butter 1,000 g
  • White chocolate 1,000 g
  • Yellow fat based colouring as nec.

Heat cocoa butter with white chocolate to 40°C. Add colouring, blend before dipping lemon balls with toothpicks.


LEMON CONFIT

  • Caster sugar 1,000 g
  • Water 800 g
  • Lemon juice 200 g
  • Vanilla bean 1/2 piece
  • Limoncello 150 g
  • Lemons 5 pieces

Form a syrup with all ingredients and lemons cut into quarters. Leave to cook on low heat, strain and set aside.


FINISHING

  • Cordifolia flowers as nec.

Pipe lemon confit onto meringue. Place a couple of drops of yellow jelly and cordifolia flowers for decoration.

Recipe given by

BRUNO TOUZAC
Chef Pâtissier La Chapinière Hôtel Resort, Saint-Galmier, (Loire).

THE IDEA?

To find an original way of working with lemon other than in a lemon meringue tart which can be found everywhere.


THE SHAPE?

In the shape of a flower, the petals are the meringues, the lemon in an optical illusion which is placed in the middle taking the idea daisy.


THE FLAVOURS?

Lemon, limoncello… the lemon is found in juice, confit and insert (with a lemon gel on the inside).


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

Enrobing the lemon into yellow chocolate, as it shouldn’t defrost too fast as the chocolate will not stick to the surface and air bubbles will form on the surface.


PROFITABILITY?

Meringue is not an expensive product, this dessert is profitable even though the price increase of chocolate and cream. With this recipe we make 50 portions.

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