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N° 444

DU 20 OCTOBRE AU 20 NOVEMBRE 2018

Summary


ACTUALITES

  • 6-8 Actualité des Maisons
  • 20 Le SIGEP fête sa 40e édition
  • 32 De tout un peu

REPORTAGES

  • 8 La Pâtisserie de Carl Marletti
  • 10-14 Pièr Marie Le Moigno,du palace à la boutique
  • 16-18 L’Instant à Lyon, signé Aymeric Leblanc
  • 94-95 Didier Merveilleux fête bientôt les 25 ans de Didier’s Pâtisserie

REPORTAGES

  • 8 La Pâtisserie de Carl Marletti
  • 10-14 Pièr Marie Le Moigno,du palace à la boutique
  • 16-18 L’Instant à Lyon, signé Aymeric Leblanc
  • 94-95 Didier Merveilleux fête bientôt les 25 ans de Didier’s Pâtisserie

REPORTAGES

  • 8 La Pâtisserie de Carl Marletti
  • 10-14 Pièr Marie Le Moigno,du palace à la boutique
  • 16-18 L’Instant à Lyon, signé Aymeric Leblanc
  • 94-95 Didier Merveilleux fête bientôt les 25 ans de Didier’s Pâtisserie

ARTISTIQUE

  • 22-32 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 35-61 Recettes de nos chefs
  • 62-63 Pas à pas pâtisserie
  • 64-65 Pas à pas confiserie
  • 66-69 Recettes de nos fournisseurs
  • 66-69 Pas à pas sans gluten : Banoffee

DOSSIER

  • 70-72 Chocolat et alcool
  • 73-76 Chocolat et emballages
  • 78-85 Chocolat de laboratoire et de revente
  • 86-92 Chocolat et matériel

PRATIQUE

  • 96-99 Pas à pas des chefs : La religieuse à l’ancienne
  • 100-101 Technologie de la glace : glaces et mgla
  • 102 En direct des fournisseurs
  • 104 Sucre artistique : Golden west
  • 105-106 Petites annonces classées
  • 108 Dernière : Le Samouraï, une pièce de Paul Klein. Atelier des Arts du Sucre, 90000 Belfort, France www.klein-stephane.com

Recipe of the month

Recipe Index

BLACK PEARL

LAUSANNE VANILLA SHORTBREAD

  • Butter 1,000 g
  • Salt 13 g
  • Caster sugar 630 g
  • Raw (unrefi ned) sugar 630 g
  • Almond powder 230 g
  • Vanilla powder 13 g
  • Eggs 230 g
  • Milk 100 g
  • Flour 2 kg
  • Baking powder 17 g

Cream the fi rst 4 ingredients together. Add eggs, milk and finish with flour, baking powder, almond and vanilla powder.


BITTER WHIPPED GANACHE

  • Cream 250 g
  • Glucose 25 g
  • Invert sugar 25 g
  • Gelatin mass 21 g
  • Cocoa paste 257 g
  • Cream 750 g
  • Milk 250 g

Chop cocoa paste. Boil 250 g cream, glucose and invert sugar. Off the heat add gelatin mass.Gradually pour onto cocoa paste and emulsify. Add 750 g cold cream and milk.


DARK SPHERE GLAZE

  • Water 147 g
  • Caster sugar 413 g
  • Cocoa powder 141 g
  • Cream 283 g
  • Gelatin mass 112 g

Cook water and sugar to 105°C, add cocoa powder and boil cream before adding into syrup. Leave to cool to 60°C before adding soaked gelatin. Emulsify with a hand blender.


CHOCOLATE CARAMEL

  • Glucose 84 g
  • Caster sugar 76 g
  • Cream 200 g
  • Glucose 40 g
  • Salt "fleur de sel" 2 g
  • Milk 72 g
  • Cocoa paste 72 g
  • Butter 56 g
  • Milk 120 g

Cook a dry caramel with glucose and sugar to 190°C. Stop cooking with heated cream and 72 g milk. Cook to 105°C and cool to 70°C before adding cocoa paste, butter and salt. Add 120 g milk and emulsify with a hand blender, strain.


BITTER DARK CHOCOLATE CRUNCH

  • Feuilletine 500 g
  • Rice krispies 200 g
  • Almonds, chopped and roasted 100 g
  • Cocoa nibs 200 g
  • Couverture Guanaja 70% (Valrhona) 550 g
  • Hazelnut paste 550 g

Combine all ingredients together.

DARK CHOCOLATE SPRAY

  • Couverture equatorial noir 55% (Valrhona) 200 g
  • Cocoa butter 200 g
  • Cocoa paste 50 g
  • Red fat based colouring 0.5 g

Melt ingredients together.


FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE SPONGE

  • Egg whites 500 g
  • Caster sugar 300 g
  • Couverture equatoriale noir 55% (Valrhona) 500 g
  • Butter 500 g
  • Egg yolks 200 g
  • Caster sugar 100 g

Whip egg whites with 300 g sugar. Blanche egg yolks with 100 g sugar. Melt butter and with chocolate. Soften previous mixture with whipped egg yolks and finish with meringue. Spead onto a 60 x 40 cm baking tray and bake at 250°C for 6 minutes.


SPHERE ASSEMBLY

Add crunch on the same day. A day before, dip frozen ball in chocolate/cocoa butter mixture and glaze. Stick together with a hot tray to form a sphere. Add 2.6 cm caramel insert (8 g) into a half sphere. Fill only 6 g into another half sphere and add a 2.6 cm disc of chocolate sponge. Into a 4.5 cm diameter half silicon mould bitter ganache (20 g per half sphere).


MANJARI-JIVARA CHOCOLATE CREAM

  • Cream 625 g
  • Vanilla bean 0.3 g
  • Egg yolks 155 g
  • Caster sugar 62.5 g
  • Gelatin mass 70 g
  • Couverture Manjari 64% (Valrhona) 50 g
  • Couverture Jivara 40% (Valrhona) 112 g

Boil cream and with vanilla bean. Pour onto egg yolks and sugar and cook to 82°C (crème anglaise). Add gelatin and pour onto chocolate to emulsify.


SACHER CHOCOLATE SPONGE

  • Almond marzipan 70% 430 g
  • Caster sugar 130 g
  • Egg yolks 210 g
  • Eggs 150 g
  • Egg whites 250 g
  • Caster sugar 130 g
  • Flour 100 g
  • Cocoa powder 50 g
  • Cocoa paste 100 g
  • Butter 100 g

Soften marzipan in robot-coupe with sugar. Gradually add egg yolks and 150 g sugar. Whip in a mixer and melted cocoa paste and butter. Fold into previous mixture, finishing with the sifted powders. Whip egg whites with 130 g sugar and fold into previous mixture. Spread 650 g , 700 g, and 1,000 g onto trays and bake at 240°C, immediately turning down to 220°C for 8 to 10 minutes.


ASSEMBLY

Cut 6 cm disques (50 per tray). Pour Jivara cream into a 1.5 cm high frame (3kg) and place 850 g sponge.


GUANAJA GLAZE

  • Caster sugar 750 g
  • Water 200 g
  • Vinegar as needed
  • Cream 750 g
  • 30° Baume syrup 210 g
  • Lemon juice 15 g
  • White chocolate Ivoire 35% (Valrhona) 300 g
  • Couverture Guanaja 70% (Valrhona) 300 g
  • Cocoa butter 24 g
  • Gelatin mass 165 g

Cook sugar and water to 185°C. Stop cooking with hot cream and syrup. Pour onto chocolates, cocoa butter and melted gelatin. Emulsify with a hand blender.


ASSEMBLY

Add a small amount of gold leaf. Add 4 x 4 bent chocolate squares. Add gourmet spheres sprinkled with chocolate crunch. Glaze the chocolate cream and sponge assembly. Create a crown with vanilla Lausanne shortbread (2.25 mm thick).

Recipe given by

STEVEN’S SITRUK
Chef Pâtissier adjoint maison Potel et Chabot, Paris.

THE IDEA?

To create a pirate ship like in the movie "The Black Pearl".


THE SHAPE?

The shape came from a fusion between an entremets and a plated dessert, where each person has their black pearl, easy to cut…


THE FLAVOURS?

Chocolate and caramel, what could be more tasty?


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

The shortbread is important not to be too thin or too thick to have a nice clean cut.


CAREFUL

Make sure that the spheres

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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