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N°460

Du 20 mars au 20 avril 2020

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-12 L’actualité des maisons : Pâques en fête
  • 14-16 École Ducasse : Nouveau tournant pour l’ENSP, avec pour Chef Pâtissier exécutif Luc Debove

REPORTAGES

  • 18-22 Bastien Girard : Un Champion du Monde de la Pâtisserie au coeur du défi d’une première affaire
  • 24-28 À la carte : Benoît Charvet, de l’élégance en toute simplicité avec les desserts au chariot et à l’assiette
  • 30-31 Tea time : Le Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel : « 16 heures en douceur »
  • 70-71 Le Chocolatier Julien Dechenaud a créé sa couverture et sa tablette de chocolat végane
  • 72-73 Chocolat : Les tendances chocolatées 2020 par le Club des Croqueurs de Chocolat

ARTISTIQUE

  • 74-75 46e Championnat de France du Dessert
  • 76 Meilleur jeune Viennois académique et régional
  • 76 3e édition du Challenge des lycées les Vergers Boiron
  • 78-79 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 39-61 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial saveurs café
  • 62-63 Pas à pas Pâtisserie
  • 64-65 Pas à pas Confi serie
  • 66-68 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 32-33 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 34-36 Intro : Café, le renouveau
  • 80 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 82 Technologie de la glace, dossier technologie avancée : L’alcool dans les glaces
  • 83 Bibliothèque
  • 84 Sucre artistique : lapin-rondelles vs coq-rondelles
  • 86 Petites annonces classées
  • 88 Dernière : Cristiano Ronaldo grandeur nature (1,87 m).

Recipe of the month

INVERSED TART “CAPPUCCINO”

Recipes for approximately 30 tartelettes.


COFFEE LEMON BLANC-MANGER

  • Cream 35% fat 260 g
  • Lemon zest 1 piece
  • Roasted, crushed coffee beans (cold) 25 g

Mix cream with lemon juice and coffee. Refrigerate overnight.

  • Egg whites 200 g
  • Caster sugar 85 g
  • Cream 35% fat 15 g
  • Gelatin mass (200 bloom) 34 g

The following day strain the infused cream and whip. Mix egg whites with sugar and heat to 35°C, whip to form a soft meringue. Melt 15 g cream with gelatin mass and fold back into whipped cream. Finish by folding meringue into previous base.


COFFEE SHORTBREAD

  • Icing sugar 120 g
  • Almond powder 90 g
  • Flour T55 550 g
  • Instant coffee 4 g
  • Salt 4 g
  • Butter 300 g
  • Eggs 120 g
  • Invert sugar 20 g

Crush instant coffee between two sheets of paper. Mix powders, coffee and cold cubed butter. Whisk eggs and invert sugar and add into previous mixture. Wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Roll out to 2.5 on dough machine and line 8 cm diameter tart shells. Bake at 150°C for 20 minutes.


MADELEINE ESPRESSO SPONGE

  • Flour T55 135 g
  • Salt 0.8 g
  • Baking powder 0.5 g
  • Caster sugar 90 g
  • Raw "unrefined" sugar 37 g
  • Eggs 135 g
  • Butter 135 g
  • Honey 30 g
  • Lemon zest 1/2 piece

Melt butter on low heat. Add honey and lemon zest. Mix dry ingredients with eggs. Add melted butter mixture. Spread onto a half tray (30 x 40 cm) lined with a silicon mat. Bake at 180°C in a fan forced oven for approximately 8 minutes. Leave to cool before cutting 6 cm diameter discs.


COFFEE WHIPPED GANACHE

  • Cream 35% fat 1,000 g
  • Instant coffee 10 g
  • Arabica ground coffee 10 g
  • Gelatin mass 72 g
  • Couverture Dulcey 32% (Valrhona) 220 g

Boil cream and add coffees. Cover and infuse for 5 minutes. Add gelatin mass and pour onto couverture. Emulsify with a hand blender, wrap directly onto surface with cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.


ASSEMBLY AND FINISHING

  • Cocoa powder 10 g
  • Neutral glaze Absolu Cristal (Valrhona) 120 g
  • Espresso coffee 30 g

Take 50 g ganache that hasn’t been whipped and mix with 10 g cocoa powder. Smoothen onto a guitar sheet with a wave shape cut into a silicon mat. Blast freeze for a couple of minutes and place into the centre of Galet moulds from Déco Relief DR306A. Blast freeze moulds and smoothn with blanc-manger. Blast freeze, unmould and glaze with neural glaze and coffee heated to 80°C. Line edges of tart rings with whipped ganache. Soak madeleine discs with coffee and place into tarts. Smoothen with ganache to the tops of the tart shells. Turn upside down onto a cake board or a plate and place blanc-manger in the centre. Cut a piping bag on an angle and pipe waves around the edges.

Recipe given by

JÉRÔME CHAUCESSE
M.O.F. Pâtissier 2015, consultant formateur.

THE IDEA?

I wanted to make a classic tart, but in a revisited way. This is where is inversed tart came from. The advantage on eating the tart upside down is that it cuts easier and that the shell doesn’t stick to the plate. The originality? Even the shortbread has a coffee flavour!


THE FLAVOURS?

I used different Arabica coffees that I paired with a light lemon blanc-manger; the perfect balance between strength and sweetness.


CAREFUL

The delicate step is when making the wave that is frozen and placed into the mould so that it takes the shape of the Galet mould from Déco Relief.

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