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N°467

Du 20 novembre au 20 décembre 2020

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-8 L’actualité des maisons
  • 10-13 Séminaire : préparer l’avenir ensemble

REPORTAGES

  • 14-18 La maison Christophe Roussel
  • 20-24 Au Fidèle Berger • Cédric Pernot à Chambéry (73) : « vendre du plaisir ultra gourmand », au sein d’un monument historique
  • 72-76 Maison Carbillet à Dijon (21) : une affaire de famille qui joue la carte de la qualité et de la réactivité
  • 78-80 Pâtissier français à l’étranger : Jimmy Boulay : « La pâtisserie française est toujours synonyme de raffinement et d’élégance. »
  • 86-89 Entretien avec : Patrick Roger

ARTISTIQUE

  • 82-85 46e Championnat de France du Dessert 2020 : Morgane Raimbaud (catégorie professionnels) et Zachary Lebel (catégorie juniors) sont les champions de France du Dessert 2020

RECETTES

  • 39-55 Recettes de nos Chefs : spécial bûches & entremets de fête au chocolat
  • 56-57 Pas à pas Pâtisserie
  • 58-59 Pas à pas Confiserie
  • 60-64 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 26-28 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 30-36 Spécial Blanc : bûches & entremets de fête des maisons
  • 66-70 Dossier beurre, crème & matière grasse
  • 90 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 92 Bibliothèque
  • 94 Technologie de la glace : glace agastache
  • 96 Sucre artistique : LA SORCIÈRE (HANSEL ET GRETEL)
  • 98 Petites annonces classées
  • 100 Dernière : L’HIPPOCAMPE AILÉ, pièce de Christophe Morel, École Bellouet Conseil Paris

Recipe of the month

CHRISTMAS WREATH, OFF THE TRACK

LOG CRUNCH

  • Maple syrup 110 g
  • Almonds, chopped 50 g
  • Pecans, whipped 33 g
  • Puffed quinoa 15 g
  • White chocolate 33% Opalys (Valrhona) 38 g
  • Almond puree 25 g
  • Almond praline 38 g
  • Salt “fleur de sel” 0.5 g
  • Lime zest 1/2 piece
  • Coconut 18 g
  • Feuillantine 63 g

Boil 85 g maple syrup and pour onto chopped almonds and pecans. Leave to set for 20-30 minutes, strain and caramelise in an oven at 15°C for 25 minutes. Pour 25 g remaining cold maple syrup onto puffed quinoa, and caramelise at 155°C for approximately 20 minutes. Melt chocolate to 40-45°C and add almond puree and praline and heat to 35-40°C. Add salt and lime zest. Pour onto remaining ingredients and stir well. Spread into desired shape.


SOFT BANANA SPONGE

  • Banana 220 g
  • Almond marzipan 260 g
  • Eggs 195 g
  • Egg yolk 20 g
  • Muscovado sugar 26 g
  • Flour 30 g
  • Butter 55 g
  • Egg whites 55 g
  • Caster sugar 20 g

Blend bananas with almond marzipan, eggs, yolks and sugar. Whip on mixer before folding flour and butter melted to 50-55°C. Whip egg whites and gradually add sugar to form a meringue before folding into previous mass. Spread to a 230 x 20 cm tray and bake at 17°C for 15-20 minutes.


ROASTED PINEAPPLE

  • Pineapples 140 g
  • Butter 5 g
  • Raw “unrefined” sugar 5 g

Peel pineapple and cut into a brunoise. Heat butter and add previous pineapples. Once the water has evaporated, add sugar and caramelise.


TROPICAL COMPOTE WITH PEPPER

  • Water 10 g
  • Caster sugar 20 g
  • Mango puree 25 g
  • Passionfruit juice 10 g
  • Vanilla bean, Tahitian 1/2 piece
  • Gelatin (200 Bloom) 2 g
  • Roasted pineapple 65 g
  • Mango, fresh 65 g
  • Lemon zest 1/2 piece
  • Lime juice 1 piece
  • Sichuan pepper 0.4 g

Boil water and sugar and add hot fruit purees and juices with vanilla. Cook to 107°C. Add gelatin that has been soaked in cold water, lemon zest, lime juice, roasted pineapple, mango brunoise and blended, sifted pepper.


AVOCADO CREAM

  • Avocado 120 g
  • Lime juice 17 g
  • Raw “unrefined” sugar 13 g
  • Passionfruit, fresh 25 g

Blend avocado with lime juice, sugar and add fresh passionfruit.


INSERT

  • Avocado cream 155 g
  • Tropical compote with pepper 150 g
  • Soft banana sponge 1 piece

Pipe avocado cream into the bottom of a thermoformed mould, freeze. Once frozen pour tropical compote with pepper and place a banana sponge disc.


COCONUT-VANILLA MOUSSE

  • Coconut puree 165 g
  • Vanilla bean, Tahitian 1/2 piece
  • Gelatin (200 Bloom) 4 g
  • Caster sugar 30 g
  • Cream 35% fat, whipped 165 g

Heat 1/3 coconut puree and add gelatin that has been soaked in cold water. Add sugar, remaining puree and vanilla bean. Cool to 16-18°C before folding semiwhipped cream. Pipe into mould and place insert before blast freezing.


WHITE CHOCOLATE GLAZE

  • Water 60 g
  • Caster sugar 120 g
  • Glucose 120 g
  • Sweetened condensed milk 80 g
  • Gelatin (200 Bloom) 8 g
  • White chocolate 120 g

Cook water, sugar and glucose to 103°C. Pour syrup onto condensed milk, gelatin that has been soaked in cold water and white chocolate. Emulsify with a hand blender and refrigerate. The following day malt glaze to 24-26°C for glazing.


CHOCOLATE SPRAY MIXTURE

  • White chocolate 70 g
  • Cocoa butter 30 g

Melt ingredients together to 40-45°C before spraying onto glazed log.

Recipe given by

JÉRÉMY DEL VAL
Chef Création Dalloyau et Champion de France du Dessert.

THE IDEA?

It came in different waves: firstly a log that is rich in fruit, then tropical fruits associating with the avocado that came at the end.


THE SHAPE?

Inspired by Christmas wreaths that are usually hung on doors.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

The crunch: caramelise well the nuts for a perfect texture.


CAREFUL

Make sure that the fruits are nice and ripe, especially the avocados.

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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