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N°506

20 mai - 20 juin 2024

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-8 Actualité des chefs et des maisons
  • 10-11 Fête des Mères
  • 26-36 45e Concours du Meilleur Apprenti de France Pâtissier, Dijon, Cité Internationale de la gastronomie et du vin : Laëlya Van der Vliet remporte la 45e édition du M.A.F. Pâtissier

REPORTAGES

  • 16-19 Maison Guillet à Valence (Drôme) : La 3e génération signe une nouvelle page d’histoire
  • 20-22 La Symphonie des douceurs à Annemasse (Haute-Savoie) : Perpétuer la tradition, tout en se renouvelant
  • 24-25 La Maison Carrousel (Paris) : Monoproduit, la maison Carrousel innove dans la guimauve de luxe
  • 72-75 Le pas à pas des chefs : François Daubinet Obsession minérale

ARTISTIQUE

  • 68-69 Alexandre Legras et Marion Wickaert remportent le 50e Championnat de France du Dessert
  • 70-71 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 38-53 Recettes : Spécial fraise et fraisier
  • 54-55 Pas à pas Pâtisserie : Couronne de fraise au basilic
  • 56-57 Pas à pas Confiserie : Fondant de fraise au basilic
  • 58-61 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIERS

  • 12-14 Nouveautés et actualités des fournisseurs
  • 62-66 Fruits

PRATIQUE

  • 76 Bibliothèque
  • 78 Sucre artistique : L’ombrelle japonaise
  • 80 Technologie de la glace : Crème glacée thé orange-menthe
  • 82 Petites annonces
  • 84 Dernière : 45e Concours du Meilleur Apprenti de France Pâtissier

Recipe of the month

VANILLA CARAMEL SAINT-HONORÉ

For 1 entremets of 6 portions.

CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE

  • Full cream milk 200 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 piece
  • Egg yolks 32 g
  • Caster sugar 20 g
  • Corn starch 16 g
  • Flour T45 8 g
  • Butter 5 g

Boil milk with vanilla bean. Pour onto yolks mixed with sugar, starch and flour before pouring back into the saucepan.
Boil for 1 minutes like a crème pâtissière. Off the heat, add butter and emulsify with hand blender. Pour into a container, wrapping directly onto surface with cling flim.
Refrigerate (4°C) for 2 hours.


LIGHT VANILLA CREAM

  • Crème pâtissière 300 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 piece
  • Gelatin leaf (200 Bloom) 2 g
  • Cream 35% fat, whipped 60 g

Heat crème pâtissière with vanilla bean and soaked and melted gelatin. Add remaining crème pâtissière and smoothen the ensemble. Fold in whipped cream and cover surface with cling flim. Refrigerate for 2 hours before use.


VANILLA CHANTILLY

  • Cream 35% fat 175 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 piece
  • Caster sugar 20 g

Whip ingredients together before filling a piping bag
with a St Honore tip.


VANILLA CARAMEL

  • Caster sugar 150 g
  • Glucose syrup 20 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 g
  • Semi-salted butter 100 g
  • Cream 35% fat, hot 100 g

Cook a dry caramel with sugar, glucose and scrapped vanilla bean. Deglaze with butter and hot cream before cooking to 103°C for 3 minutes.
Strain and emulsify with hand blender. Wrap surface directly with cling flim and refrigerate (4°C) for 12 hours.


PUFF PASTRY

  • Flour T55 280 g
  • Flour T45 120 g
  • Butter, tempered 120 g
  • Salt 10 g
  • Water 150 g
  • Dry butter 84% fat 200 g

Dilute salt in cold water.
In a mixing bowl with a dough hook attachment mix flours with softened butter. Add salted butter and form a ball. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate (4°C) for 12 hours. Roll out dough into a rectangle, place dry butter and seal with butter with the dough. Roll out to 8 mm thick and give a single fold, repeating the process 5 times refrigerating (4°C) for 2 hours between each 2 folds. Wrap with cling film and refrigerate (4°C) for 2 hours to rest. Roll out to 4 mm thick before refrigerating (4°C) for 1 hour. Preheat oven at 170°C, dock dough and place onto a sheet of baking paper, adding another sheet of baking paper on top as well as a wire rack.
Bake at 170°C for 50 minutes.


PUFF CARAMELISATION

  • Icing sugar 100 g

Preheat oven at 230°C, sift icing sugar on top of puff and caramelised for 7 minutes.


CHOUX CRUNCH

  • Raw “unrefined” sugar 50 g
  • Butter 50 g
  • Flour T55 50 g

Mix all ingredients in a mixing bowl to for a homogeneous dough. Roll out to 2 mm thick between two sheets of baking paper. Freeze for 30 minutes before cutting 30 mm diameter discs.


CHOUX PASTRY

  • Water 50 g
  • Milk 50 g
  • Caster sugar 2 g
  • Salt 2 g
  • Butter 50 g
  • Flour T55 60 g
  • Eggs 100 g

Boil water with milk, sugar, salt and butter. Add sifted flour and stir with a spatula on the heat for 2 minutes. Place batter into a mixing bowl mix with a paddle before gradually adding eggs.
Pipe with a N°8 tip onto a greased baking tray small 8 mm diameter choux. Preheat oven to 230°C, place choux crunch on top before baking at 160°C for 12 minutes. Careful not to open the oven.


ASSEMBLY

Choux caramel

  • Caster sugar 250 g
  • Glucose syrup 50 g
  • Water 100 g

Cook a caramel with all ingredients to 175°C.
Stop cooking by immersing saucepan into cold water.
Dip choux ¾ into caramel and place onto a silicon mat.
Fill choux with light vanilla cream with a N°10 tip.
Cut puff into a 160 mm diameter disc and place choux around the edge. Pipe light vanilla cream in the centre and finish with vanilla chantilly on top.

Recette proposée par

KL Pâtisserie, Paris.

THE IDEA ?

Representing the traditional St Honore while adding more indulgence with salted caramel.


THE SHAPE ?

Round for a better visual appeal
and enhanced aesthetics.


THE FLAVOUR ?

A comforting blend of vanilla with a hint of indulgence from the caramel.


THE TECHNICAL STEP ?

Ensure to master of the 5 folds in the puff pastry.


CAREFUL ?

Do not overcook the caramel for the choux, it shouldn’t go over 175°C.


PROFITABILITY ?

Not very cost-effective considering the preparation time but justified considering the selling price.

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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