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N°470

Du 20 février au 20 mars 2021

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-10 La Saint-Valentin des maisons (suite et fin)

REPORTAGES

  • 12-16 Martial Ray à Clermont-Ferrand (63) : Qualité et rentabilité, fers de lance de l’activité des deux boutiques
  • 18-22 Maison Chaloin à Chagny (71) : Maintenir la qualité tout en surprenant les gourmands
  • 56-59 Pâtissier français à l’étranger : Maxime Maniez, Signiel Hotel et Stay Restaurant by Chef Yannick Alléno, Séoul, Corée du Sud : « Être très ouvert d’esprit, humble, flexible et patient »

ARTISTIQUE

  • 60 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 29-43 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial baba
  • 44-45 Pas à pas Pâtisserie : Baba au rhum au chocolat
  • 46-47 Pas à pas Confiserie : Craquant chocolat-amande
  • 48-51 Recettes de nos fournisseurs

DOSSIER

  • 24-26 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 52-55 Zoom alcools
  • 62 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 63 Sucre artistique : SIDONIE
  • 64-69 Bibliothèque : 20 ans de Pâtisserie de C. Michalak. Éclairs de Christophe Adam. Signature Viennoiseries de Johan Martin. Chocolat de Stéphane Bonnat. POTEL et CHABOT, une histoire d’émotions depuis 1820. Pâtisserie, Chocolat, etc. de Didier Smeets. Le côté sucré de la nature de G. Doyen
  • 70-71 Technologie du chocolat : La pâte à tartiner aqueuse
  • 72-73 Technologie de la glace : Glace au sauternes
  • 74 Petites annonces classées
  • 76 Dernière : Pièce en sucre, Étienne Leroy, Champion du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2017.

Recipe of the month

RUM BABA POPSICLES

RUM-RAISIN CREOLE ICE CREAM

  • Full cream milk 1,122 g
  • Milk powder 0% fat 74 g
  • Sucrose 158 g
  • Glucose powder 120 g
  • Cream 35% fat 228 g
  • Egg yolks 140 g
  • Stabiliser/emulsifier 8 g
  • Dark rum 40% 150 g

Heat milk to 25°C and add milk powder. At 30°C add sugars keeping a small amount of sucrose to mix with stabiliser. At 35°C add fats (cream and yolks), at 45°C add stabilizer/ emulsifier mixed with remaining sucrose. Pasteurize at 85°C, blend and cool to 4°C. Leave to mature for at least 12 hours at 4°C. Blend again before churning. Half-way through the churning process, add frozen rum.


BABA DOUGH

  • Flour 300 g
  • Fine salt 4 g
  • Honey 20 g
  • Fresh yeast 12 g
  • Eggs 380 g
  • Butter 100 g

Place flour, salt, honey, and yeast into a mixing bowl. Gradually add eggs and continue to work the dough for 3 minutes. Continue to mix for another 3 minutes with the softened butter. Leave the dough to rest and rise before knocking back and refrigerating at 4°C. Fill 3 cm half sphere moulds and prove until the dough has doubled in size. Bake at 180°C for 15 minutes.


SOAKING SYRUP

  • Water 700 g
  • Caster sugar 340 g
  • Orange zests 10 g
  • Lemon zests 10 g
  • Vanilla bean 1 piece
  • Dark rum 160 g

Heat water with sugar. Add zests and scraped vanilla bean. Leave to infuse before adding rum. Warm to 40°C and soak cooled babas. Leave to soak overnight at 4°C.


WHITE VANILLA ENROBING

  • White chocolate 1,000 g
  • Cocoa butter 50 g
  • Grapeseed oil 150 g
  • Vanilla beans 2 pieces

Melt white chocolate with cocoa butter. Add oil and vanilla grains. Temper to 30-35°C.


ASSEMBLY

  • Couverture Dulcey 32% (Valrhona) as nec.

Pipe rum-raisin ice cream into 90 ml GEL01 Classic SILIKOMART moulds, placing 1 cm cubes of soaked baba and smooth with a spatula. Place popsicle sticks inside before blast freezing. Unmould and dip into white vanilla enrobing. With a small piping bag, pipe dots of different sizes with Dulcey couverture and store at -18°C.

Recipe given by

ALAIN CHARTIER
M.O.F. Glacier, Champion du Monde, Theix, Vannes, Sarzeau, Arzon, Carnac.

THE IDEA?

A rum baba, one of the top 10 French pastries, which is quite difficult to eat by hand. The idea was to create a version that was possible to eat in the street.


THE SHAPE?

In the shape of a popsicle, easy and definitely when walking in the street.


THE SHAPE?

Pairing an egg-based ice cream with the sponginess of a soaked baba and the crunch of the chocolate enrobing.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

When incorporating the babas into the assembly: make sure that the syrup doesn’t excessively leak out.


CAREFUL

It is important to the method of preparation of the rum ice cream to avoid having an ice cream that is too soft with the addition of the alcohol (an antifreeze).


PROFITABILITY?

Yes, a baba is profitable: we make in large series so that it is always available in our shops.

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