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N°485

Du 20 juin au 20 juillet 2022

Summary


ACTUALITÉ

  • 6 Journées Nationales du Centre Féminin de la Pâtisserie : Un nouveau chapitre s’ouvre
  • 7 Trophée de la Pâtisserie Française
  • 8-9 Cameroun, la Coopérative Femmes Rurales
  • 10-11 Actualité des Maisons
  • 12-14 Dans les coulisses du nouveau catalogue de PCB Création

REPORTAGES

  • 20-24 Rémi Touja à Carcassonne (Aude) : La rigueur d’un Champion de France du Dessert au coeur des fabrications
  • 26-29 Restaurant Georges Blanc à Vonnas (Ain) : Des desserts de Pâtissier « cuisinés » avec art
  • 30-32 Hôtel Bachaumont, Paris : le sarrasin, les herbacés et l’orge dans la pâtisserie de Sophie Coulombel
  • 34-35 À la carte : Hôtel La Citadelle, restaurant la Réserve, la Pâtisserie gourmande de Quentin Nollez
  • 76-77 Chocolat artistique : L’univers végétal de Stéphane Leroux

ARTISTIQUE

  • 72 Région Centre-Val de Loire, Loiret : Menu signature Loiret, un défi culinaire autour des produits du terroir départemental
  • 73 Région Occitanie, Lot, Biars-sur-Cère : Concours fruits de talent Andros Chef Mélanie Hours, lauréate 2022
  • 74 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 39-55 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial rhubarbe
  • 56-57 Pas à pas Pâtisserie : Fraise rhubarbe
  • 58-59 Pas à pas Confiserie : Finger de granola au chocolat
  • 60-65 Recettes de nos fournisseurs
  • 66-67 Recette ADAPT : Lila

DOSSIERS

  • 16-18 Nouveautés et actualité des fournisseurs
  • 36-37 La rhubarbe, idéale en Pâtisserie
  • 68-70 Emballages, l’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 71 Sucre artistique : The Batman
  • 78 Technologie de la glace : Lait fraise glacé
  • 80 Bibliothèque
  • 82 Petites annonces classées
  • 84 Dernière : Pièce de Stéphane Leroux, M.O.F.

Recipe of the month

RHUBARB FLOWER

Recipe for 3 entremets of 6 portions.


NUT CRUNCH

  • Butter, softened 91 g
  • Raw "unrefined’ sugar" 71 g
  • Salt 0.65 g
  • Nuts, crushed (23 g pumpkin seeds, 23 g whole almonds and 23 g pistachios) 69 g
  • Flour T55 48 g
  • Almond TPT (20% almond powder, 50% icing sugar) 70 g
  • Strawberry powder 10 g
  • Feuilletine 39 g
  • Butter, softened 74 g
  • Cocoa butter 10 g
  • White chocolate as nec.

Mix 91 g softened butter with raw sugar and salt. Once mixed together, add flour, TPT and feuilletine. Sprinkle onto baking trays and bake at 150°C for 15-20 minutes. Leave to cool and add melted cocoa butter before spreading 150 g into each stencil. Refrigerate to set before brushing a thin layer of white chocolate on the bottom to seal.


BABA BRIOCHE

  • Fresh yeast 10 g
  • Eggs 102 g
  • Salt 4 g
  • Caster sugar 21 g
  • Flour 170 g
  • Cream 35% fat 5 g
  • Butter 85 g

Dilute yeast with eggs. Add salt, sugar and flour. Mix on 1st speed for 1 minute before mixing on 3rd speed. Add cream and mix on 3rd speed for 4 minutes. Add remaining butter and finish to mix to form a smooth dough. Ensure that the final mixing temperature is not over 25°C. Weigh 150 g and form a disc in a 16 cm diameter and 4.5 cm high. Prove at 27°C maximum for 1h30. Bake at 150°C for 45 minutes with steam.


HERB SYRUP

  • Water 345 g
  • Crystal sugar 175 g
  • Xanthan gum 2 g
  • Lime puree 90 g
  • Lime zest 2 g
  • Basil leaves 5 g
  • Mint leaves 8 g
  • Tarragon leaves 3 g

Heat water and sugar to 60°C. Add xanthan with the lime puree, zest and herbs. Blend and leave to infuse for 30 minutes, covered. Use at 40°C to soak babas.


STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB COMPOTE

  • Rhubarb puree 336 g
  • Invert sugar 26 g
  • Caster sugar 38 g
  • Frozen wild strawberries 254 g
  • Pectin 325NH95 12.4 g
  • Agar-agar 1.9 g

Heat puree with invert sugar to 40°C. Mix sugar with agar and pectin. Gradually pour onto previous mixture and boil. Add wild strawberries and pour 130 g per mould. Use remaining mixture to stick sponge to crunch.


TULAKALUM CHOCOALTE SPRAY

  • Couverture Tulakalum 75% (Valrhona) 75 g
  • Grapeseed oil 15 g

Melt couverture with oil. Spray onto frozen strawberry-rhubarb compote.


RHUBARB-STRAWBERRY CONFIT

  • Rhubarb puree 230 g
  • Strawberry puree 116 g
  • Dextrose 13.8 g
  • Pectin 325NH95 2.85 g
  • Agar-agar 1.65 g
  • Lime juice 9 g

Heat purees to 40°C. Add dextrose, pectin and agar mixed together and bring to the boil. Add lime juice and cool before pouring 100 g per mould, adding frozen, sprayed compote.


FROMAGE BLANC MOUSSE

  • Water 21 g
  • Caster sugar 81 g
  • Egg yolks 42 g
  • Gelatin mass 76 g
  • Fromage blanc 20% 273 g
  • Cream 35% fat 305 g

Heat water with sugar to 120°C before pouring onto yolks. Whip to cool to 30°C. Heat ¼ fromage blanc and add melted gelatin mass before adding remaining fromage blanc. Whip cream before folding cooled pâte à bombe and whipped cream. Pipe 230 g into each mould.


RHUBARB SYRUP

  • Caster sugar 1,350 g
  • Water 500 g
  • Rhubarb puree 500 g
  • Sour cherry puree 150 g
  • Rhubarb 1,000 g

Cut rhubarb into lengths and set aside. Heat remaining ingredients to 60°C and pour onto rhubarb lengths and refrigerating to cool overnight.


RHUBARB CAVIAR

  • Rhubarb syrup 350 g
  • Agar-agar 4 g
  • Rapeseed oil 500 g

Cool oil to 3°C and boil rhubarb syrup with agar. Fill into a sauce bottle and pipe drops into the cold oil. Rinse pearls in cold water before use.


ASSEMBLY

Spread crunch into stencils and cool. Spread rhubarb compote onto crunch with a stencil and place soaked baba onto compote to also stick the sponge. Pipe again with a stencil and stick insert before blast freezing. Pipe mousse into mould and place crunch/sponge insert. Stick poached rhubarb lengths and glaze with neutral glaze. With a ring, place caviar pearls and finish with fresh microherbs.

Recipe given by

FABIEN EMERY
Chef Pâtissier École Lenôtre, Rungis.

THE IDEA?

The idea came about thanks to the colour of rhubarb and the graphic aspect that comes out.


THE SHAPE?

A stone that is very elegant and aesthetic which works well with strips of colour from the rhubarb.


THE FLAVOURS?

Rhubarb, strawberry and fresh herbs. Very fresh in the mouth.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

Finishing with the poached rhubarb strips.


CAREFUL

Dexterity during the assembly and the flavour balance with the different infusions.

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