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Du 20 janvier au 20 février 2022

Summary


ACTUALITÉS

  • 6-10 L’actualité
  • 12-16 La Saint-Valentin des maisons

REPORTAGES

  • 20-23 Bourgogne-Franche-Comté, Saulieu, Le Relais Bernard Loiseau : à la carte des desserts : La Côte d’Or, 2*
  • 24-28 Xavier Brignon à Besançon (Doubs) : Une signature singulière, sous le signe du bon goût et de la gourmandise raisonnée
  • 30-33 Nicolas Dastru à Marseille : Le bon goût de la tradition gourmande, qui fidélise la clientèle
  • 66-67 Pas à pas des Chefs : La Tarte à la crème de Benoît Castel
  • 68-70 Pâtissier français à l’étranger : Las Vegas - Nevada - États-Unis, Michael Gillet, MG Patisserie and Cafe

ARTISTIQUE

  • 60-61 8e Édition des World Chocolate Masters, finale nationale France : Antoine Carréric remporte la finale française, Takako Nahamura remporte le prix du bonbon chocolaté et se classe deuxième
  • 62-63 Concours : Palmarès des concours du Salon du Chocolat & de la Pâtisserie de Vannes
  • 64 Concours : 11e concours Création & Saveurs Président Professionnel 2021
  • 65 Agenda des concours

RECETTES

  • 35-47 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial Saint-Valentin
  • 48-49 Recettes de nos Chefs : Spécial banane
  • 50-51 Pas à pas Pâtisserie : Entremets chocolat-banane
  • 52-53 Pas à pas Confiserie : Palet caramel-vanille
  • 54-56 Recettes de nos fournisseurs
  • 58-59 Recette ADAPT : Kiss

DOSSIERS

  • 17-19 Nouveautés des fournisseurs
  • 57 L’actualité des fournisseurs

PRATIQUE

  • 72-73 Technologie de la glace : Crème glacéeau sablé breton
  • 74-75 Bibliothèque
  • 76-77 Sucre artistique : Don Quichotte
  • 78 Petites annonces classées
  • 80 Dernière : Le buffet du Japon, médaille d’argent de la Coupe du Monde de la Pâtisserie 2021

Recipe of the month

VALENTIN’S DAY HEART

Recipe for 2 portions.


COCONUT-LIME MADELEINE SPONGE

  • Eggs 488 g
  • Invert sugar 260 g
  • Flour T55 400 g
  • Desiccated coconut 88 g
  • Icing sugar 240 g
  • Baking powder 20 g
  • Salt, fine 6 g
  • Lime zest 10 g
  • Coconut milk 70% 100 g
  • Butter 199 g
  • Coconut oil 199 g
  • Malibu coco liquor 18% 50 g

Mix eggs with invert sugar. Add sifted powders, lime zest and coconut milk. Add hot melted butter and coconut oil. Finish with liquor and stir. Spread 1,650 g to 8 mm thick on a 60 x 40 cm baking tray. Bake at 200°C for approximately 7 minutes. Press into a 60 x 40 cm baking frame. Spread 700 g to 3 mm thick onto a 60 x 40 baking tray and bake at 200°C for approximately 4 minutes. Cut into small hearts.


PINK GRAPEFRUIT-RASPBERRY JELLY

  • Pink grapefruit juice 780 g
  • Glucose 78 g
  • Caster sugar 130 g
  • Pectin NH nappage 26 g
  • Potato starch 20 g
  • Yuzu puree 52 g
  • Raspberry pieces 390 g
  • Fish gelatin mass 65 g

Heat grapefruit juice with glucose to 40°C and add sugar mixed with pectin and starch. Boil for 2 minutes and add yuzu puree, raspberry pieces and gelatin mass.

Entremets insert
Spread 1.5 cm thick insert onto 8 mm thick sponge and freeze before cutting a heart shape insert.

Heart decoration
Mould into a heart mould and place a 3 mm small heart. Freeze and spray with neutral glaze.


LIME RECONSITUTED SHORTBREAD

Streusel

  • Raw “unrefined” sugar 71 g
  • Coconut sugar 71 g
  • Almond powder 88 g
  • Desiccated coconut 88 g
  • Flour T55 140 g
  • Butter 140 g
  • Salt “fleur de sel” 2 g

Reconsituted shortbread

  • Couverture Opalys 33% (Valrhona) 510 g
  • Almond puree 270 g
  • Lime zest 10 g
  • Feuilletine 200 g
  • Salt “fleur de sel” 2 g

Mix sugars with almond powder, desiccated coconut, flour and butter to form a crumble texture. Press through a large sieve. Bake on a perforated silicon mat at 150°C for 16 minutes. Melt couverture to 45°C with almond puree and zest. Pour onto baked streusel, feuilletine and crushed salt. Do not over mix the mass to avoid creating a heavy texture. Spread to 5 mm thick into a frame (approximately 1,460 g). Take particular care not to crush the mass, but just lightly spread into the frame to retain the crunchy texture. Make sure to spread in a warm room (such as an oven room) to help with the manipulation. Freeze and cut heart shapes.


INTENSE COCONUT MOUSSE

  • Intense coconut puree 300 g
  • Fish gelatin mass 50 g
  • Locust bean gum 3 g
  • Egg white 32 g
  • Glucose 49 g
  • Cream 35% fat 120 g

Heat puree to 35°C, add melted gelatin mass and locust bean gum before blending. At the same time, heat whites with glucose on bain-marie to 40 C before whipping in mixer to cool. Fold half of semi-whipped cream into coconut base, add meringue and finish with remaining whipped cream.


RUBY SPRAY

  • Ruby lustre dust 10 g
  • Kirsch 45% 70 g

Mix ingredients together and set aside.


PINK CHOCOLATE

  • Couverture Opalys 33% (Valrhona) 5,000 g
  • Red colorant, fat based 18 g
  • Raspberry cocoa butter as nec.

Melt chocolate and add colouring. Temper and spread 60 x 40 sheets (approximately 350 g). When chocolate starts to set, cut butterflies for the decoration. Stick the two wings together and lightly spray with raspberry cocoa butter to create a splashed effect.


ASSEMBLY

Upside-down assembly. Pipe approximately 80 g coconut mousse into each mould. Tap to remove air bubbles. Place insert with sponge on top. Complete with remaining mousse and place a disc of reconstituted shortbread. Smoothen and blast freeze.


FINISHING

Blast freeze to facilitate the unmoulding process. Spray with raspberry cocoa butter, then with ruby spray. Place in the centre of the entremets a decoration sprayed with neutral glaze. Place frozen entremets onto a heart cake board with a drop of invert sugar. Stick butterfly with a small amount of melted chocolate. Place 3 dots of gold.

Recipe given by

JULIEN ALVAREZ
Champion du Monde de la Pâtisserie,
Chef international de la création pâtissière, Ladurée.

THE IDEA?

The heart symbol represents Valentine’s Day and we wanted to remain with bright and intense colours of ruby raspberry which attracts the eye in the shop window.


THE FLAVOURS?

I really like raspberry and grapefruit flavours which link well with coconut and remind us of the bright red colour of the exterior of the heart.


THE TECHNICAL STEP?

The assembly is quite simple. It is important to respect each step of each recipe: the small details is the secret if the best pastry shops!


CAREFUL

Do not overcook the compote to retain the most freshness, the acidity which reduces the sweetness and also retains fruit chunks in the marmlalade.

Since 1978, between tradition and innovation, the Journal du Patissier has been your monthly pastry, chocolatier, ice cream, catering, candy, restaurant reference worldwide.


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